thread-review

petei needlepoint mini-sock showing rabbits, stitched by needlepoint expert janet m. perry

This Petei mini-sock uses Kreinik's naturals metallics throughout.

Kreinik’s line of “naturals” in metallics came back recently, with a smaller number of colors that have been changed slightly.

I used the extensively in this Petei mini-sock from my stash. They are used for all the metallics.

Only one color, 4006 Rose Hip was retained from the original series. As you can see it’s a soft pink, that’s still very metallic. If the other pinks in the Kreinik line are too bright or to modern for your stitching, look to this shade — it’s great.

The other colors are muted neutrals.

On the mini-sock, the darker brown/gold is 4202 Susky Meadow, kind of a dark Hot Chocolate color that will mix well with either gold or silver. The lighter color is 4203 Cattail, a slightly greenish gold. It’s a real chameleon color, looking green, gold, or brown depending on the context. It should be4 considered for many applications.

I didn’t use 4204 Storm Cloud (gunmetal), 4205 Ironwood (sliver), 4201 Sugar Cane (light green) in this piece.

You can read about them all on Kreinik’s site.

Tomorrow I’ll look at Empress Elite from The Pure Palette, and Thursday at Duchess Silk from Gloriana both of which were also used here.

The rest is here:
Kreinik’s New Naturals

Paternayan Persian Wool – Old & New

by NutsAboutNeedlepoint

in Nuts About Needlepoint

With the increasing unavailability of Paternayan, many shops are dropping this line of wool in favor of others. For us, as stitchers, who like wool, we may find ourselves turning to older stashes of Paternayan that we get from friends, from our own stash, or from eBay and thrift shops.

This is great because it will let many of us continue to stitch with a fiber we love. BUT

You may not be happy with the result.

This is because there was a change in how Persian Wool was spun and understanding it is important to good results.

Modern Persian Wool, including Waverly and Paternayan has three strands that are even in width. So, just as you do with floss, or silk, or just about any other stranded thread, you don’t worry about what strands to combine.

But older Paternayan (and probably other Persian Wools as well) doesn’t have strands even in width.In fact, the strands re three different sizes. I think of them as Papa, Mama, and Baby Bear. If you are using two strands, combine Papa with Baby, or put together two Mamas. These combinations will be the same width. Do other combinations and the thickness will be uneven, resulting in blotchy needlepoint.

You can see the size difference pretty easily if you untwist an inch of two of the strand. Flaying at the ends sometimes makes it hard to see, so be sure to untwist a bit. If there is not a visible difference, it’s probably newer Persian.

What do you do if you are only using one strand? I wouldn’t recommend using Persian here at all (this could be why 18 mesh wasn’t that popular in the 80′s), but if you do try to use all Mamas.

I’d show you an example, but I don’t have any Persian Wool, old or new.

See the original post:
Paternayan Persian Wool – Old & New

Kreinik – Website Review

by NutsAboutNeedlepoint

in Nuts About Needlepoint

Originally posted 2003-02-20 07:56:36. Republished by Blog Post Promoter

I love Kreinik threads — both the silks and the metallic threads. As time has gone on, it has made me more and more happy that the color range available in them has become greater so it is so much easier to use them for many purposes.

To mach their outstanding threads and their wealth of knowledge about them, Kreinik has put together and outstanding website — http://www.kreinik.com. It is an outstanding and inspirational place to visit.

If metallic threads are new to you, then the site can help introduce them to you easily. The metallic section of the site describes the main types of metallic threads clearly (so you can understand the difference between high lustre, vintage, cord and basic), what you can do with metallic thread, and the history of metallic threads. There are also links where you can find each of the threads described in more detail. There are tips on using the different threads as well as information on their use in specific kinds of embroidery, fly tying and other crafts. And there is a great on-line color chart.

Kreinik also makes lovely silk threads. The home page for the silks
has outstanding information about the history of silk as well as some essential tips on stitching with silk. It even includes something I’ve never seen anywhere else — instructions to dry cleaners on how to clean pieces made with these threads! The pages on the individual threads have information and stitching tips. You can also view a color family listing of silk threads or request their color chart.

Kreinik has done an outstanding job of getting a wide variety of free patterns for many kinds of handwork from designers on their site. You can find outstanding projects for needlepoint, cross stitch, plastic canvas, hardanger, crochet, stumpwork, machine embroidery, and lots more. All are listed by technique under “freebies” Every pattern can be printed out using Adobe Acrobat.

Just looking at the needlepoint projects gives you an idea of the wide variety of material here. There are stitch guides for painted canvases, needlepoint pins, a frame, Christmas ornaments, geometrics, silk gauze and lots more. There is a real effort here to cover all the myriad of techniques where metal and silk threads can be used.

There are also sections devoted to fly tying (with free patterns) and to scrapbooking as well as information about their many stitching accessories, silk gauze and books.

I love the way this site is so clearly laid out and easy to read. The style of the pages is open and friendly. The pages load quickly and it’s always easy to find what I need to know.

I highly recommend this site if you haven’t seen it already.

See the original post:
Kreinik – Website Review

More on the Knitting Yarn Thing

by NutsAboutNeedlepoint

in Nuts About Needlepoint

vera neuman butterfly

My eldest daughter (and I) have a thing for Vera. If you are old enough, you’ll remember her bright colors and simple vibrant drawings on everything.

I bought two vintage canvases, one of a strawberry and one of a daisy on eBay a week ago. They are big and they are quickpoint. That means BIG mesh. I’m waiting to see if it’s 10 or 7 mesh, but I suspect 7. They will be so cool on her white couch when they are done.

But the mesh size means nothing in my stash will work on it. So my plan is to use knitting yarns. I have some knitting yarns in my stash but I think the only thing that will work is some thick cotton rope from Rowan that’s black. I don’t have much of it, but black is an accent on them anyhow. This will also give me an idea of the thickness I’ll need.

Then I’m going to ask my knitting friends for yarn, then I’ll go visit the local knitting shop and buy knitting yarn for them. That’s going to give me the thickness I need, the bright colors the pillows have, and will make them very long-wearing.

I’m so excited. This will be an amazing stress release project.

Read the original here:
More on the Knitting Yarn Thing

Can I use knitting yarns for needlepoint?

by NutsAboutNeedlepoint

in Crochet,Knitting,Nuts About Needlepoint

I get asked this question often. For many of use knitting stores are closer to home than a needlepoint shop and the prices and large size of skeins of knitting yarn make them very attractive to stitchers. Today I’ll show you some examples, both good and bad of knitting yarns and explain why they work or don’t work for needlepoint.

Many needlepoint threads are actually relabeled and dyed yarns used for knitting or crochet.

In terms of packaging and marketing there are a couple of differences to keep in mind. Yarns for knitting come in much larger packages than the exact same yarn when it’s packaged for needlepoint, so when you use them you’ll end up with lots, so they tend to work better for backgrounds.

Second, knitting is a fashion industry, needlepoint is an heirloom craft. This means that color selection in knitting yarns is smaller and changes with fashion. If orange is out, it will be hard to find orange knitting yarn, but it will still be easy to find orange needlepoint yarn where the color range is bigger and doesn’t change much.

This color chart of Lana Grosso’s Baby Alpaca shows how small a single yarn’s color range can be. But even 30 colors is a big range for a knitting yarn. It’s extremely small for needlepoint.

Having said this you CAN use knitting and crochet yarns for needlepoint. You need to look for certain things that will make the yarns easy to use:

1. The yarn should be even in width. Yarns with big slubs, tons of fringe or large variations in width won’t go through canvas. A yarn such as this recycled silk yarn (picture from Yarndex) has too many variations in width to work for needlepoint, even though it’s great for knitting.

2. The yarn should be about the width of a thread you would use for needlepoint on that mesh of canvas or easily split into threads that width. If it can’t be split and is too thick, it’s likely to be too fragile to go through the canvas without shredding.

Happily knitting yarns come in standard sizes that can be a great help to stitchers. Baby weight, sock weight, or fingering are all names for a yarn that works well on 18 mesh. Lace weight usually is thin and would need to be plied up. DK is heavier and would work on 13 or 14 mesh unless plied down. Sport weight or light worsted would most likely work on12 mesh. Worsted is a bit thicker than tapestry wool and would work best on 10 mesh. Any yarn heavier than worsted would need to be plied down to use for needlepoint.

The picture shows size comparisons of several weights of yarn with a penny for size. It’s from this article, which explains weight really well. Fingering weight is at the top, the others are increasingly fine lace weights.

3. It shouldn’t be too stretchy. This is a characteristic of some knitting yarns. It’s a good thing in a garment. but a bad thing in needlepoint where there is more tension when you stitch, and that both stretches and weakens the yarn.

4. It should have a clear twist. Many knitting yarns are very loosely spun and have little twist. Because of the sizing in needlepoint canvas, all yarns gets abrasion as it is stitched, loosely spun yarns just shred.

You can see clearly in this roving yarn from Ming Sheng how the three strands are loosely twisted. This yarn will not work for needlepoint unless it was couched on the front of the canvas.

Read the rest here:
Can I use knitting yarns for needlepoint?

Thread Review

by NutsAboutNeedlepoint

in Nuts About Needlepoint

Originally posted 2006-03-18 08:35:21. Republished by Blog Post Promoter

Vineyard Silk(http://www.vineyardsilk.com/): A brand new silk for needlepoint from
Wiltex. This thread is unusual combining a bit of silk’s luster with a soft hand in a single
strand thread. The threads works on both 14 and 18 mesh canvas. There are three types
of this thread Classic (115 solid colors), shimmer (38 colors of solid blended with thin
metallic) and Tone on Tone (18 shaded colors). The skeins are 28 yards and well-priced so
they are a good value.

I really loved stitching with this thread. For people who have never stitched with silk
before, this is a perfect introduction to this fiber.

Soy Luster (http://www.thepurepalette.com): Yarns made from soy took the knitting world
by storm a few years ago and soy luster is the first needlepoint yarn made from soy. It has luster like silk, but is soft like wool. A thin thread, a single strand is used for Congress
Cloth while two strands are needed on 18 mesh. It is hand-dyed using formadehyde-free
dyes. It comes in 36 yard skeins and comes in solid or shadow colors. There are 82
colors in solids and shadows, which are three shades of a single color. Although it is
difficult to tell from a skein, the shades in the shadow colors have long runs, which makes
them easier to manipulate.

DMC Light Effects (http://www.dmc-usa.com/): Light Effects is the expanded line of DMC
metallic floss. It has six strands and can be used like floss. This is a great benefit to
stitchers looking to customize their use of metallic. There are 36 threads in six different
ranges: pearlescents (pastel, iridescent tones), jewels (precious stones colors and two
variegated colors), antiques (metal and gilt finishes for a vintage look), precious metals
(silvers and golds), flourescents (green and yellow) and glow-in-the-dark (white thread
glows after exposed to light).

In general these metallics are more difficult to use than metallic braids, they have more
static electricity and so they don’t stay together well when using several strands. In
addition, they tend to knot and come unthreaded easily. The colors are interesting and
often unique, but the thread is too delicate and difficult to be used for more than an
accent.

Aubusson Crewel Wool: Tapestry Guild has come out with a lovely French crewel weight
wool called Aubusson. It is very smooth and lovely for stitching. Two strands covered
beautifully on 18 mesh canvas is either basketweave or a textured stitch. This is one of
the nicest crewel wools I’ve used. If you are a fan of really old Medici or of Needle
Necessities overdyed wool, you’ll love this yarn, it is similar. In shaded and solid colors.

Waverly Wool (http://brownsheep.com/waverly.htm): This is a Persian wool made in the US from Brown Sheep. The company is well-known for their knitting yarns and Waverly
makes a grand addition to the line of needlepoint threads. It is three-stranded but with all
three strands being the same width, it’s very easy to split. A single strand is perfect on 14
mesh and can be used for decorative stitches on 18 mesh. There are tons of colors. with
many families having six shades in them. Nine multi-colors are also available.

House of Embroidery Floss and Pearl (http://www.houseofembroidery.com/): These
overdyed yarns are from South Africa and are available in floss as well as #5 and #8 pearl.
The different threads are dyed to match and the color range is vibrant and interesting.

One of the most unusual things about this thread is the packaging. #8 perle is packaged
with three coordinated colors on a card, each in 9m lengths. #5 perle is packaged in single
skeins with 22m per skein. The floss is packaged with two 5m skeins on a card. Some of
the combinations are shades of the same color, some related colors, but using these
threads will enliven any design.

Read this article:
Thread Review

Storage Tips for Kreinik Spools

by NutsAboutNeedlepoint

in Nuts About Needlepoint

This is most definitely one of those “Do as I say, not as I do” posts (Mom said there would be days like this).

Kreinik spools can be a real bear to keep organized. Recently on Facebook, Elaine Withrow Stevens had a picture of the compartment box she uses to store her Kreinik spools. She lets us know where she got them and the picture shows how well they store the spools, either flat or upright.

I had forgotten about this method of storage. That’s dumb because at least two stores I know of store them this way. As a customer it irritates me because I can’t see the threads easily. It was especially bad at the place where the boxes weren’t clear AND she kept them behind her desk out of sight and out of reach (that shop is no longer open).

But it’s fantastic for storage if you have space.

I keep mine, sorted by size in some of my card catalog drawers (not good for knowing how much I have of something.

See the original post here:
Storage Tips for Kreinik Spools

Perle Cotton Giveaway

by NutsAboutNeedlepoint

in Nuts About Needlepoint

Thanks to the generosity of a friend who is cleaning up her stash, I have a big bag of perle cotton in full skeins to give away.

There are 32 skeins of #5 in many different colors and three skeins of #3.

In order to win this giveaway, please add a comment to this post, telling me why you like perle cotton.

Entries will stay open until September 9, 2011 at midnight Pacific. I’ll announce the winner on Sunday, September 11.

Good Luck!

Originally posted here:
Perle Cotton Giveaway

City Needlework Silk – Thread Review

by NutsAboutNeedlepoint

in Nuts About Needlepoint

Lee Needle Arts needlepoint kimono using City Needlework Silk stitched by needlepoint expert Janet M. Perry

City Needlework is a fairly new needlepoint shop in the SF Bay Area. They also have their own line of stranded silk for needlepoint that now has national distribution.

I completed this mini kimono from Lee Needle Arts last weekend. City Needlework Silk is used for all the silk except for the lightest pink.

In feel and ease of use it reminded me of Needlepoint, Inc Silk. That’s my favorite silk because I think it is smoother than Splendor, so it’s easier to use, but not so smooth it tangles (one of my problems with Au Ver a Soie).

So it was great for stitching, moving smoothly through the canvas. To see if my impression was correct, I used one of Needlepoint Inc’s overdyes from their Northern Lights line for the light pink. No difference in stitching.

However Needlepoint Inc is an eight strand silk, so City Needlework Silk has slightly thicker strands.

Looking at my color card, the colors (there are about 200) tend more to colors than neutrals and more to brights than pastels.

The range of colors in each family ranges from one family with 4 shades to one with 10. Most families though have 5 or 6 shades.

This is a lovely silk, one well worth seeking out.

More here:
City Needlework Silk – Thread Review

Blending Old & New Dyelots Seamlessly

by NutsAboutNeedlepoint

in Nuts About Needlepoint

You know the feeling, you are going to run out of thread before the project is finished.

You’ve already starting stitching, so you can’t use my stripes method (explained in the link).

What do you do when you’re using a stranded thread?

First off stop stitching this color immediately. You want to save as much of the thread of your first dyelot as you can.

Second, buy the thread you need and I skein more than you think you need. Get the same dyelot if possible.

If the dyelots are not the same, then you will use needleblending to move from one dyelot to the other. The process is the same as shading: you will replace one strand at a time until you are only using the new dyelot.

But how do you decide how many rows to do for each blend? Assume that, at most, one half of the remaining area should be used for the transition, although it can be much less. But remember, the wider the transition are is, the more seamless it will be.

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