Knitting

Nikol here. I'm down to the torso. I still have another ball to knit on the torso before I have to commit to a sleeve, but I have no idea which way I want to go.

Tip: If you haven't picked out a button yet, you can use a mini pinback button as a placeholder so you can still try on you WIP. I'm using a My Paper Crane sad toast pinback button.

I've been using the waste yarn holding the sleeve stitches to manipulate the shape of the sleeves and play with different options. I think both the cap sleeve and the flutter sleeve look really good with the collarless version.

We got a great question about larger sizing on the flickr group from 2girlsnaboy. I thought other people might be interested, so I'm including the question and my answer, plus some extra info on sizing in the other direction.

Q: I am not quite a medium anymore (!), but a large. I am wondering if anyone has made this in a size a bit bigger than provided in the pattern, and if so, the suggested increases?

A: It's knit to size, so you'll make the changes automatically. The wide neckline (~21 inches) is suitable for a wide range of sizes, and you'll just keep going with the raglan increases until the sweater reaches below your armpits. If you're bigger, this will be farther along, which will result in more increases overall, and thus more stitches overall.

If you want to add a bit of extra ease beyond that, you can also cast on more stitches over the armpits--this will give you some more fabric in the body and more fabric in the arms. 5 extra stitches will give you a little over an inch of extra fabric.

For a L, I'd stick with the pattern as written.

For an XL or 2XL, if you want the neckline to be a bit wider from the start, you can cast on an extra stitches from the beginning, then divide them among the sections. For 2 extra inches, figure about 10 extra stitches. I'd put an extra stitch on each sleeve, 2 on each front panel, and 4 in the back. For 4 extra inches, add an extra 20 st and put 4 on each front panel, 2 on each sleeve, and 8 in the back.

On the other hand, if you wish to make a smaller model, cut back on your intital CO stitches, and everything will fall into place. Top-down raglans are conveniently auto-sizing, so as long as you start with the neckline you want and divvy up the stiches with the same percentages, you'll be able to generate any size you want.

For a very small frame or a child's size, you'd cast on fewer stitches. Use the larger sizes as a guideline, but work backwards. So for 2 fewer inches of neckline, subtract 10 extra stitches. When you place the markers, take an extra stitch off each sleeve, 2 off each front panel, and 4 off the back, and CO 4 stitches over the armpits instead of 6.

For 4 fewer inches of collar, drop an extra 20 st and take 4 off each front panel, 2 off each sleeve, and 8 off the back. You'll also want to start the puffs 1/2 inch sooner, and CO either 2 or 4 stitches over the armpits instead of the regular 6.

Whether you're going up or down in sizes, you can check our size before you get going. After working a couple rows of collar, drape it around your neck to approximate the jacket's neckline. If the size looks good, proceed.

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If you're participating in the KAL, use the code below to display this badge on your blog!

<a href="http://www.flickr.com/groups/thatgirl_summerjacket/"><img src="http://cdn.makezine.com/make/craft/2010/07/badge_summerjacket_kal.gif" width="150" height="150" border="0" alt="That Girl! Summer Jacket KAL" /></a>

I'm currently working on the collar of my That Girl! Summer Jacket which I am making in the neutral beige linen color. Ever since Nikol posted up her KAL variations, I'm now fancying the option of a mini tie for the sleeves. I haven't decided yet but am glad I can decide once I get to the sleeve area. If you are interested in knitting along with us, please join our That Girl! Summer Jacket KAL Flickr Group.

Illustration: Lion Brand Yarn

The first stitch of the project is a slip stitch purlwise. Generally, if it isn't noted in a pattern it should be assumed to be done purlwise so that the selvedge edge of the project will look neat. To do this, simple insert your right knitting needle into the left needle as if you are going to purl the first stitch. Instead of purling, simply transfer over that single stitch to your right needle.
For more directions, see the slip stitch page in Lion Brand Yarn's Library of Knitting and Crochet.

In knitting this project, I've been using my Denise Interchangeable Knitting Needles. I reviewed these in the first issue of CRAFT: 01, and they've been a knitting essential ever since. It has saved me from buying new needles each time I start a knitting project. The cool thing about these needles is that I'll be able to extend the circular area of the needle as I knit. Since I'm starting out with just the collar right now, to keep things from tangling up, I'm using a smaller length of cord. To add on more lenth, I simply take off one end of needles, add an extender piece and add on another length of cord to extend it. I don't need to take my project off the needles!

I'm looking forward to lots more knitting this weekend. Enjoy!

Check out loolabub's progress on her sweater! I love the mauve color she chose.

If you're participating in the KAL, use the code below to display this badge on your blog!

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Hey, y'all! Nikol here and welcome to our That Girl! Summer Jacket KAL! For my second jacket, I'm going to skip the collar, pick a sleeve variation (see below), and make the overall jacket a bit longer with the yarn I save from the collar & sleeves. Download the original pattern PDF if you'd like to take part in our KAL.

This simple little jacket works up quickly and really lends itself to customization, so I've dreamed up some easy variations you can try.

Shawl collar: Work collar as directed for 6 inches instead of 3.

Collarless: CO placket stitches along with collar stitches (112 total). Work 5 rows as for collar. Work the buttonhole as directed, placing markers as you go: S1, P1, K1, P1, K and BO the next stitch, P and BO the following stitch, PM, P17, PM, P16, PM, 34, PM, P16, PM, P17, K1, P1, K1, P1, K2, then continue as directed.

Flutter Sleeve: After CO over armpit, work 6 rnds in seed stitch without decreasing. BO in pattern.

Mini Puffs: After CO over armpit, proceed directly to puff decrease section.

Cap Sleeve: After CO over armpit, proceed to puff decrease section. Work decreases, then work 4 rnds in seed stitch and BO.

Tie Sleeve: Work as directed to sleeve cuff. Instead of working the cuff as directed, CO 20 st at either end of the split. Work ties in seed until they're until ties are 1/2 inch wide, then BO in pattern. To wear, knot the ties loosely.

Mini Ties: After CO over armpit, then proceed to puff decrease section and replace cuff with ties, as outlined above.

Button-down: Repeat buttonhole rows every 2 inches.

Pullover: After collar, join in the round. K17, PM, K16, PM, K34, PM, K16, PM, K17. Skip the button placket stitches. Work in the round instead of flat, increasing with raglan stitches every other round.

My KAL That Girl! will use 5 balls of Knit Picks CotLin in Planetarium (midnight blue). I know I'm making the collarless version with a sleeve variation, but I haven't picked my sleeve yet. That's the beauty of the top-down raglan--you can try it on as you go. I'll mess around with the sleeves when I get to them and try to strike a balance between cuteness and minimizing my chubby arms.

I've worked the initial collarless variation described above, and now I'm just going to continue until I've used up 3 of my 5 balls of yarn. I know from experience that I used close to two balls on the sleeves, so I'll transfer my torso stitches to a spare needle after 3 full balls, then start on the sleeves. Once I've decided on my final sleeves, I'll work them both, then continue with my torso stitches until I have about 10 grams of yarn left, then work my seed bottom border.

I know I'll be using much less yarn on the shorter sleeve variation, so I plan to make the jacket longer, probably hip length. Unless I change my mind. :)

If you're participating in the KAL, use the code below to display this badge on your blog!

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Matt Mets @ Make: Online writes:

Designer Siren Elise Wilhelmsen built this 365 clock that tells time by knitting a scarf very slowly. In this case, it knits one round of the scarf every 24 hours, creating a new clothing item for you every year. It reminds me of just-in-time manufacturing techniques- wouldn't it be cool to have a set of them, one that builds you a new piece of clothing for each season, that finishes just as you need it?

Our very own Becky Stern is one of those overachieving crafters who always takes things to the next level. Not only does she knit with a machine, she programs custom-made patterns for said knitting machine. And now she's stitched up some sweet padded pouches with the results and has them listed on Makers Market. Becky's ambition and all her amazing skillz make her the most crush-worthy crafter I know.

Calling all crafty knitters! Don't you love our new top-down knitting pattern for the perfect summer cardigan? Our That Girl! Summer Jacket by Nikol Lohr is a retro-inspired cropped summer jacket goes from sunshine to summer nights or chilly air-conditioned offices. Starting next week, join Nicole and I in our special knit-along to make this cute cardi. I will be knitting the pattern and showing off my progress, while Nikol will show you how to vary the pattern and will also make a collarless/longer cardigan with a sleeve variation. She'll also share info on how you can adjust the pattern size for teens, kids, and babies.

The CotLin DK yarn from Knit Picks is an affordable yarn with lots of great colors. At just $2.79 a ball you can't go wrong. (I chose the linen color for my sweater.) You can also use any other yarn of your own choice. Just make sure to check your gauge to fit the pattern.

To join, simply add yourself to our That Girl! Summer Jacket Flickr Group and if you are on Ravelry, add this project to your queue and cast on! (Click the Ravelry button below.)

My knitting machine comes with some crazy two-color knitting patterns, which its capable of executing one row at a time by way of a magnetic encoder switch. It sounds complicated, but the operator (me) just has to push the carriage back and forth across the needle bed instead of laboring over each stitch. The pattern gets programmed ahead of time into the machine's computer. In order to tile properly, the gridded pattern must be a tessellating rectangle. If you poke around online, you can find a few tessellation generators that can help you make designs. Nathan Rosenquist designed the two patterns pictured. I'm having such a good time experimenting with colors!

• Getting Used to My Knitting Machine
• Newsknitter
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Anna of Mochimochi Land is sharing a free pattern for these cute knit baby gators from her new book, Knitting Mochimochi. I love the idea of whipping up a whole batch of them to make some kind of baby gator attack scene ...

Ask any knitter for his/her motivation, and you'll get a wide variety of responses. It's a great stress reliever, as the process can be very relaxing and therapeutic. Some knitters are "process" knitters and some focus on the end object. Well, some folks at Cardiff University in the UK are performing an anonymous survey, and they could use your help!

Stitchlinks and Cardiff University have launched an online survey which looks at the impact of knitting on physical, mental and social wellbeing. The results will form part of a series of formal studies into the therapeutic benefits of knitting and will be published.

Here's a PDF with more info on the study.

• CRAFT Pattern: Reversible Cable-Knit Scarf (pictured above)
• Knitting Archives
• CRAFT Patterns