Imperfection in Needlework

An article in a 1903 issue of The Craftsman said

It is … desirable that the work retain its original, pleasing characteristics of slight irregularity and imperfection, – not to say carelessness, – were it only to avoid the appearance of machine-wrought embroidery.

This quote caught my eye because as stitchers we have different opinions about imperfection in needlework. Even more so the professional embroiderers of this period could easily produce perfect work, but instead chose to introduce imperfection in needlework as a virtue, showing it was, indeed, hand-made.

I’ve seen both ends of the spectrum myself. I got a model back once that was so perfectly stitched it could have been done by machine. Every stitch had the same tension, every one was untwisted. I knew that here was a perfection I could only wish to attain.

On the other hand I’ve seen, and stitched, plenty of sloppy work with missed stitches, uneven stitches and all.

As I’ve said in the past I greatly respect the work of our hands and don’t like the current acceptance of sloppy work for sale that we see so often.

The happy medium to me should be somewhere between machine-like perfection and sloppiness.

For myself I’m willing to live with some uneven tension, occasional twisted threads where it doesn’t make much difference and, now that my eyes aren’t as good, a skipped stitch or two.

So yes, I don’t mind imperfection in needlework and I agree with this quote.

How about you?

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July Reviews & Blog Changes

I know from my email how many of you rely on this blog as a source of needlepoint news, inspiration, and instruction.

I also realize that I’m not always the most organized person on the planet. My organization strategy tends to be what I call “happy anarchy,” letting things just end up where they end up.

And this blog has tended to be the same way. But, after 8 years (yes it’s been THAT long), I think both you and I deserve more order in our lives. So, I’m adding some order to the blog, so that you know when to look for particular kinds of articles.

You’ll always know that if something is timely or important I’ll break the schedule, but if you are really interested in seeing what’s new, say, you’ll know to look on Fridays.

Tuesdays-Thursdays every week you’ll find original content from me. This has been in place for quite a long time and will continue. These columns can be an eclectic mix of everything from free projects, to sneak peeks, news, or reviews.

Fridays will be new product days. Often these posts will let you know about one or more new products. Sometimes they’ll point to where you can find out more.

Saturdays will be dedicated to needlepoint ideas, techniques, and tutorials. Sometimes these posts will point to a great resource of idea from elsewhere on the web, sometimes they will be an idea from my own stitching. On Saturdays you’ll find information to make your needlepoint sing.

Sundays and Mondays will have a mix of news, inspirational sites, and whatever else comes along. I’m going to take a page from my daughter’s blog and do “Clippings” posts where serval things are put together into one post.

I’m hoping by organizing in this way, I’ll get more of the things you want on the blog and make the information easier to find.

This month, July, all Tuesday-Thursday posts are going to be reviews. Next week it’s all Blackwork books. There are magazines, more books, threads, finishing items and lots more to come during the month.

Related posts:

  1. A Brief Word about Product Reviews
  2. Product and Book Review Month
  3. Crafty March Madness
  4. Back Home & Needlepoint Blog Update
  5. Blog Vacation

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July Reviews & Blog Changes

Pardon Me While I Rearrange the Furniture

On Monday, my fantastic DH put together the lovely IKEA daybed pictured above in my studio. This, in turn, has set off a flurry of rearranging, going through my stash and rearranging everything in the room except the desk (too heavy to move), the new daybed (in its proper place) and the bookshelves (attached to the wall).

So today, while I’m rearranging the room and cleaning up, I thought I’d give you an assortment of cool things I’ve found around the Web lately.

  • Liz Morrow is celebrating the first anniversary of her website with a sheet of free small designs. They are just too cute and I keep on thinking about making a bunch using scrap threads and then finishing them on button rounds as ornaments. Download it as a PDF.
  • Blue Dogwood Designs has a monthly series of 8″ square designs available free on their site. This month’s design is Tangled Rose. You can also get to it by clicking “This month’s stitch guide” from the left column of their home page.
  • Rainbow Gallery always has great free designs on their site. If you check out their free needlepoint designs page, you’ll find a charming heart by Sally London as the second design. It’s the first in a series of free designs. You will be able to get the others from you local shop. I’ve seen them and they are great.

Whether you have lots of time, or just a little, try some of these great free projects.

Related posts:

  1. Free Stitch Guide
  2. Needlework Gazette – Website Review
  3. Needle Artworks – Website Review
  4. Ruth Dilts – Needlepoint Designer Extraordinaire
  5. New Products at On-line Needlework Show

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Pardon Me While I Rearrange the Furniture

Needlepoint Trade Secrets: One chapter free download & special offer

needlepoint trade secrets tips book by janet perry
In my book, Needlepoint Trade Secrets, I share hundreds of tips with you about doing needlepoint and other needlework. I like the book so much I keep a copy on my desk as a reference.

It’s summer and I have two special offers for you, good through Labor Day (how’s that for a vacation special?) First you can download and read, completely free, the Traveling with Needlepoint chapter. It’s a PDF file, and you get it by clicking the link.

Second, I am offering the book at a special price to my readers. The book, including shipping via first class mail in the US is only $16. That’s below retail, even with the shipping! Use the PayPal button below to order.


California residents get charged sales tax. If you live outside the US you will be invoiced for additional shipping costs (which ought to be small).

Take advantage of this great offer today and keep stitching!

Related posts:

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  5. Last Day for Needlework Show!

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Needlepoint in the Fifties – A Look Back

Yesterday I had an occasion to look at the oldest needlepoint book I own, Needlepoint Made Easy, published in 1955.

It gave me pause, because I was also looking at The Needlepoint Book, first published 21 years later.

Since most of us started stitching after the needlepoint “revolution” of the early 70’s we probably don’t think about it much, but the needlepoint of the 50’s was very different.

In the 50’s almost all needlepoint was pre-worked and very traditional in style. Furnishings inspired by the American colonies was popular and these designs fitted well in those decors.

Wool ruled to the exclusion of almost anything else. Original design was not encouraged, in the 50’s book only a short chapter near the end covers it.

Half-cross was the default stitch. Although Basketweave and Continental are covered, every picture of the back of stitching is half-cross. Only one non-tent stitch is even mentioned, Bargello, and no Bargello pieces are shown, so you can’t do a project in Bargello from this book.

Then look at The Needlepoint Book. You are encouraged to design your own projects and the author’s original designs are throughout the book. There are many, many stitches, both pictured and diagrammed.

You learn advanced techniques, in the 50’s book the only advanced technique covered is how to repair or splice canvas. You learn about color and design. All this was before the revolution in threads.

Even so, The Needlepoint Book from the 70’s looks contemporary and is still useful. The book from the 50’s looks quaint.

Think how far we have come!


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Lani Enterprises – Web Site Review

At TNNA, I can never wait to see what delights await at the Lani Enterprises booth. One year it was this amazing series of realistic, but so stitchable, train cars. Another year it was lovely pieces inspired by the paintings of Miro. Their inventiveness and owner Lani Silver’s stitching blows me away. I’ve always wished I had a way to share it all with you.

Lani Enterprises has a wonderful new web site which will introduce you to her wonderful designs and inventive stitching. Click on “designs” along the top and you can see her canvases arranged by category. Not only are there categories by theme, there are also ones by style, such as contemporary, or function, such as bracelets. In addition, some categories are further divided into subcategories, so I can quickly find what I want.

Clicking on one of the categories takes you to an overview page for these canvases. Click on one of those and a larger view of the canvas, along with its number, size and mesh, appears on the left side of the page. I love this because I can look through the category at my own pace without wondering what that little bit of design might be.

One of the things I love about Lani is how great a stitcher she is. Her “finished models” section showcases this with 6 sections of picture (labeled as pages) of finished stitching. The small pictures of each model tell you the name of the design and who stitched it. Click on the picture to get a pop up window with a larger image (which an be enlarged again. Some sections have a single theme, others are general and have multiple pages. All the work is inspiring.

Finally Lani has a page listing the stitch guides available. She’s so inventive, I wish there were more canvases of hers out there.


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Bath Mosaic Needlepoint – Central Medallion & Borders 1

roman mosaic from bath reproduced in blackwork and needlepoint

This week we’ll start stitching the Bath Mosaic. The chart for this week will cover the central medallion, the square around it and the first two borders.

The chart is shown in parts, in a small size below. To get the full sized charts, click on the picture below. To help you find your place, each chart builds on the other ones.

The design, when stitched on Congress Cloth is stitched using one strand of silk. If you are using 18 mesh canvas use two strands.

The key to the charts is as follows: blue squares – blue Needlepoint Inc 325, red squares – terra cotta Splendor S925, green squares – gray Splendor S920

The design uses Tent Stitch and Blackwork only. Since the Tent Stitches are only single or in straight lines, continental stitch will be the best choice. This will give the most coverage on the back and will prevent the stitches from disappearing on the canvas. The blackwork on the model was done continental style, always moving the needle up in a clean hole and down in a dirty hole. You could also do this as Double Running Stitch or Backstitch. I like the thicker look Backstitch gives blackwork because of the greater coverage on the back.

A note about the chart: I had great difficulty in rendering the chart and finally ended up doing it in the way it makes most sense to me. The central medallion and all curvy lines are charted like regular blackwork (i.e. the lines of the stitches are on the lines of the paper). Tent Stitches always take up squares on the charts. Because of this you should check the counts on each border with your needle before beginning to stitch a side or section. Blackwork is terrible to unstitch on Congress Cloth!

roman mosaic from bath in blackwork on Congress Cloth, designed by Janet Perry

To make the central medallion, begin in the center of the pattern. This is only a single tent stitch in blue. Four canvas threads from it begins the “sun” pattern in terra cotta. Make the circle of Tent Stitches first. Then add the backstitching over two threads in each direction. Use terra cotta for these stitches.

Now you can begin the first set of curves. The straight lines at the compass points begin one thread up from the sun’s rays and go over four threads. They are made up of two backstitches over two threads. I put these in first. Then I did each section of curve. Generally they use a 2 and 1 slope and curve around the area. Stitch the area in the same blue as the center stitch. For the innermost blue line the central stitch in the curve is shorter.

Once you have completed the blue curves, you will do the first circle of “flower petals” in terra cotta. Do the edge of the petals in Blackwork first. Later you can fill them in with Tent Stitches. I have only charted the Blackwork edge of the petals so you could see the design more clearly.

Next make the outer row of petals in blue. It has a single Tent Stitch at each point.

This completes the central medallion (curvy part).

roman mosaic from bath in blackwork on Congress Cloth, designed by Janet Perry

Now you are ready to square the central medallion, making the first border and corners. Unlike the central medallion, here the Backstitches are done over a single thread of canvas. This is where doing Backstitch in the continental style will really make your life easier. It creates a much stronger line because stitches do not disappear. This line of stitching is one thread beyond the outermost points of the petals. I began in the middle of a side and worked around. Once you have completed the square you can do the squares in each of the corners.

backstitch for blackwork, needlepoint or cross stitch with numbers

This chart illustrates the proper method to make Backstitches for this project. By stitching front to back the coverage on the back is thicker than the coverage on the front, making a stronger line.

As you work on the borders, the best method is to lay down the innermost line of the border first. Then determine the location of the outermost line and stitch it. Now using your unthreaded needle, count to find the locations of the border pattern. I make sure the count is right by slightly moving the threads of the canvas out of the way wherever there will be a stitch. That way it is easier to figure out if the count is correct. The Blackwork on this border is stitched in blue. The Tent Stitches are blue and terra cotta.

roman mosaic from bath in blackwork on Congress Cloth, designed by Janet Perry

The second border is two threads beyond the first border. This one has only an outside line. Stitch it and then put in Tent Stitches in terra cotta next to it, every other stitch, all around the square. You will note on the chart that the stitches meet at the corners.

roman mosaic from bath in blackwork on Congress Cloth, designed by Janet Perry

Put the inside line of the third border three threads beyond the second border. In order to place the outside border I put in the corner crosses first. This lets me know where the outside line for the border should be. I next stitched that in.

This border looks to me like a bunch of books, lined up with the spines at the back. This border is not even; one block on each side is three threads instead of four. It is easy to discover these kind of problems and adjust for them before you stitch if you count the pattern out.

Follow the entire series on-line: Introduction and materials, central medallion and borders 1, borders 2, borders 3 & finishing ideas


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Bath Mosaic Needlepoint – Central Medallion & Borders 1

Roman Mosaics in Britain

roman mosaic from bath reproduced in blackwork and needlepoint

Wherever the Roman legions went, they left their mark on the area one way or another. You find Roman aqueducts in Spain, a Romance (i.e. Roman) language in Eastern Europe, and, in England, floor mosaics from the time Rome ruled the island. When I was in England about 10 years ago, I fell in love with this mosaic that hangs in the Bath Museum. I thought it would make a great needlepoint piece and it did. The picture is of the finished piece.

It’s one of my favorite projects ever with the strong curvy center of the design is surrounded by seven different borders, each with a different pattern in them. In addition to being a very nice design on its own, the Mosaic has lots of ideas for border designs for other work. I did it as a free project in 1998 for About.com with hand-drawn charts. But it’s too good to sit in my archives. So, beginning with this post, I will be sharing it with you as a free project. Weekly I will be doing another chuck of it with new charts and instructions.

Today’s post will give you some background about the mosaics, including on-line resources for further exploration. It will also provide you with the original material list and how to reproduce it in materials available today, since both the fabric is no longer made.

The Romans often decorated the floors of public places and villas with elaborate stone mosaics. Most of these either depicted the gods or were entirely geometric. In almost all of them you find complex geometric borders and fill patterns. In England, which stayed Roman until the Fourth Century and didn’t reach the same level again until the Eighteenth Century or so, many partial mosaics remain and have been recorded and studied. One listing of Roman Mosaics in Britain has seven pages with excellent pictures of new and reproduction Romano-British mosaics.

There is also an organization, ASPROM, devoted to the study and preservation of these mosaics. Their site has a list, with links, of many places to see Roman mosaics, a resources list, and information about news and events.

There are also books you can get on the subject, including Geometric Patterns from Roman Mosiacs, an excellent introduction, available from Amazon. This book concentrates on the British mosaics. Another is Roman Mosaics in Britain. There are many other affordable (and expensive) ones on Roman mosaics in general.

The overall design uses a deep greenish blue and a pale terra cotta color to make the design. Small bits of gray (which matches the canvas) and darker blue (in the outermost corners) add depth to the design. Two strands of silk were used throughout.

To make the design you will need: 12 x 12 inch square piece of gray Congress cloth (This will give you a wide border) Silk floss in the following colors: 2 skeins Needlepoint Inc 325 Dull Marine Blue (blue x’s on chart), 1 skein Needlepoint Inc 928 Dull China Blue (blue solid dots on chart), 1 skein Rainbow Gallery Splendor S925 (red slashes on chart), 1 skein Rainbow Gallery Splendor S920 (green dashes on chart)

You can substitute any brand of stranded silk or cotton floss for these colors. Hand-dyed threads will also work, as long as they are shades of the same color, close in value, such as those from The Thread Gatherer.

The material is more of a problem. The original used gray Congress Cloth, which is no longer available. Needle in a Haystack does have it listed on their website. You can use white Congress Cloth and color it light gray with paint or COPIC markers in a very, very pale gray. (The gray background is an important part of the design and reproduces the look of the original.) You can also switch to fabric. Looking at the fabric list at Needle in a Haystack, Dublin Linen, Legacy Linen, Lorna Linen, Soft Congress Cloth, Floba, and Jobelan come in counts of 24 or 25. In terms of color, the closest match I found was Dublin Linen in Platinum.

The design uses Tent Stitch and Blackwork only. Since the Tent Stitches are only single or in straight lines, Continental Stitch will be the best choice. This will give the most coverage on the back and will prevent the stitches from disappearing on the canvas. If you are stitching the piece on an even weave fabric, use Cross Stitch instead of Continental.

The Blackwork on the model was done continental style, always moving the needle up in a clean hole and down in a dirty hole. You could also do this as double running stitch or backstitch. I like the thicker look this method gives Blackwork because of the greater coverage on the back.

Assemble your materials, while I try to rechart the center, and next week we’ll start stitching.

Follow the entire series on-line: Introduction and materials, central medallion and borders 1, borders 2, borders 3 & finishing ideas


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