CRAFT Projects

Project: Needlepoint Purse

By Danielle Thompson

I really love the look of vintage needlepoint (especially needlepoint handbags!) from the 50s, 60s, and 70s, and wanted to try my hand at needlepoint myself. So I grabbed some plastic canvas from the craft store, got to stitching, and soon realized: needlepoint is pretty easy! Even the simplest stitches produce a beautiful effect. A lot of people associate ugly designs from the 80s when they think of plastic canvas, but it's a great way to introduce yourself to the gorgeous world of needlepoint. The canvas is easy to use - it has a large weave so projects work up very fast, and it's not finicky like fabric canvas can be. I've put together a tutorial for making a stylish needlepoint purse with a design that's a modern twist on this favorite from the past.

Materials

(2) 13 1/2" x 10 1/2" plastic needlepoint canvas
Scissors
Plastic canvas needles
Worsted-weight yarn in various colors (this is a great stash buster)
1" button cover kit; you'll be making 3 buttons
Wool felt: (2) 8 3/4" x 4" pieces; (2) 13 1/4" x 8 3/4" pieces; scraps for felt buttons your choice of colors
Purse handles

See the supplies/resources guide at end of this tutorial for tips to help you find these items.

Download the Needlepoint design PDF
Right click to save the PDF to your desktop. Directions on downloading PDFs.

Directions

Step 1: Trim your plastic needlepoint canvas down with scissors. For a 13 1/2" x 10 1/2" piece, cut off 12 horizontal plastic threads at the bottom and 1 vertical plastic thread off one side. Be careful to cut down the last nubs of plastic fairly close, while being careful not to cut into the next thread. When I made this purse, I cut down my canvas after I finished my needlepoint design - it's up to you if you want to do it before or after.

Step 2: Get stitching! Only the front panel of the purse is created using needlepoint. You can download the needlepoint design PDF (above). The Continental Tent Stitch and Crossed Corners Cushion Stitch are used. These are very simple stitches. The Crossed Corners Cushion Stitch is great because it covers a large area quickly. And the weave on plastic canvas is so large, the piece works up fairly fast. As you can see, the arrangement of four Crossed Corners Cushion Stitches together creates a pretty pinwheel effect.

Here are some diagrams on ending and starting threads for needlepoint that directly relate to this purse project.

Step 3: Add your felt covered buttons. If you don't have a button-covering kit, some large-sized vintage buttons would be a pretty addition. Make your buttons according to the instructions in the image above. To attach the buttons to your needlepoint, knot one end of a length of yarn, pull your needle through the middle of one set of four Crossed Corners Cushion Stitches, pull the yarn through the shank of your button, and then insert your needle back into the same hole through the back. Secure your thread and cut. Add three buttons down the front center of the purse.

Step 4: Cut out the remaining pieces of your purse according to the image above.

Step 5: You can choose to back your needlepoint with felt or not, but I thought it was important to protect the back of the piece from whatever you're putting in your purse. Place your needlepoint backing on top of the wrong side of your needlepoint piece. Anchor the four corners of the backing to your needlepoint piece so that it stays in place while you stitch the two together. Stitch all the way around as shown above. Use a yarn color that blends in well with your plastic canvas. I used blue so that you could see the stitches well for this tutorial, but ended up using a dark brown to match my canvas.

Step 6: Stitch all parts of the bag together as shown in the above image, in this order:

Whipstitch A to B.
Using a running stitch, stitch A to C, C to D, D to E, and then E to A. Leave approximately 1/4" of a seam allowance (keeping this to the inside of the bag). You could also use a sewing machine to stitch C to D and D to E to save time.
Carefully flip the bag inside out. Whipstitch B to the bottoms of C, D, and E.

Step 7: Attach the purse handles. For the front side of the purse, anchor a length of yarn (use a color that blends in with the color of the purse handle) to the top of the needlepoint panel, loop through one end of the purse handle opening, and then back through the needlepoint canvas. Continue doing this wide whipstitch to connect the two together until you get to the end of the purse handle opening. I wanted the look to be thick, so I doubled my stitches through the weave of the canvas, as shown above.

Step 8: Attach the other purse handle to the back panel. Since it's the back, I didn't care too much how it looked so I didn't double up my stitches. Since the back panel is felt, I wanted to reinforce where the handle will be attached, so I stitched a small piece of plastic canvas to the top using a running stitch, and then attached the handle using a whipstitch (see the above image).

Step 9: Pinch the tops of the side panels and secure with a small stitch. You're done!

Supplies/Resources Guide:

Plastic canvas (brown): Joann craft store
Wool felt (12" x 18") in Butterscotch, Mint, and Grapefruit: Giant Dwarf
Wooden purse handles: Joann craft store (Everything Mary Brand, RN #128183)
Button cover kit: you can find at your local craft store or on Etsy
Stitch Step by Step is a fantastic needlepoint/stitch guidebook

About the Author:

Danielle Thompson is a graphic designer, crafter, blogger, collector, thrifter, and scout of all things vintage. She lives in Atlanta, Ga. with her two boys and husband. You can follow her on her blog, Twitter, and Facebook and see her designs at Kitschy Digitals.

Project: ABC Book as Group Baby Shower Gift

by Carla Sinclair

in Babies,CRAFT Projects,Sewing

By Claire Joyce-Johnson

I can't deny it. I have babies on the mind. My first child, Ramona, was born on January 9, and the past several months have been a flurry of preparations. Two of my good friends threw me a wonderful baby shower and managed to organize such an amazing gift that I nearly broke into tears.

By contacting people far enough in advance, my shower organizers convinced a handful of friends and family both near and far to each contribute a handmade page to a felt alphabet book for my soon-to-arrive daughter. The book is beautiful, hilarious, and put together by friends with all levels of artistic skills. I love the different approaches to each page and that the personality of each contributor is obvious as you flip through the book.

This month, my project for you is how to organize and make a similar book for an expectant friend that is near and dear to you. I admit that I did not make this project myself, but I was so touched by the results that I had to share the idea with CRAFT. The great thing about this project is that you could organize a "mailed baby shower" for a friend who is far away, or at least allow distant friends and family to participate in a baby gift that will be personal and meaningful.

Materials

9" x 12" craft felt in a variety of colors
Sharp scissors
Needle
Thread in a wide range of colors
Sewing machine
5 sheets 9" x 12" craft felt in colors of your choice
Measuring tape or ruler
Pen
Ribbon
(39) 1/4" grommets (optional)
Small grommet tool (optional)
X-acto knife (optional)

Other adornments that you think are fun: sequins, google eyes, iron on appliqués, scrap fabric, fabric paint, glitter - the creativity is really up to the author of each page.

Directions

Step 1: Figure out how to contact 26 people you think may be interested in participating in a collaborative craft. My shower organizer mailed invitations and gave people the option of coming to the shower, coming and making a book page, or sending a book page and not attending the shower.

Setting up an online invitation wiki page or Google doc might be the easiest way to contact the participants and keep track of who is doing what. When people agree to participate, you can either assign them a letter of the alphabet or make them choose their own letter and post it in their online RSVP so other participants can see which letters are taken.

Step 2: Provide clear instructions so that the pages are the same size and formatted in a way that allows them to be easily bound together. Keeping the pages the size of standard craft felt (which is 9" x 12") makes it simple for everyone to just purchase a piece of felt and get to work. You can include further instructions such as where the letter should be placed on the page, or you can leave that up to each individual artist. Because you will be sewing the pages together, each page should have a 1/2" margin on all edges as a seam allowance.

Since these will be pages in a book and pages flex and bend, it is best if the participants stitch down the layers of felt to their page, rather than using glue. Glue works, but it does not hold for as long and pieces of the design can come off and be a choking hazard for the baby.

Step 3: Provide a due date when all the pages must be sent or delivered to you that allows you enough time to assemble the book before the shower or gifting date. Making the due date at least two weeks earlier than you think you need the pages is a good idea. Someone will always be running late and a missing page can stop you from doing much of the assembly.

Alternately, you could just throw a book-making party where everyone brings some supplies and puts their assigned page together at the same time--this would allow people who cannot sew well to get help from more experienced crafters. I find that a little wine at an event like this can really help get the creativity going!

Step 4: Once you have received all of the pages, it is time to assemble the book! There are two ways to do this and both are very simple.

The book I received was bound with ribbon strung through holes in the edges of the page. This works well enough, but it is possible that the felt will tear over time. If you want a binding like this but more sturdy, follow the instructions below for binding using grommets.

The second set of instructions is how to bind the book by sewing the pages together, and although these instructions seem longer, I personally think sewing the binding is the easier and sturdier of the two methods.

For binding the book with grommets:

Grommets are small metal rings that help to secure a hole in fabric so that it does not fray or tear. Using these to secure the holes for binding your book will help it last longer. You can find grommets and grommet tools at your fabric or craft store. The simple grommet tool (as seen in the image) is usually available for under $4.

Step 5: So that each page has a front and back, you need to stitch pages together. Place page "A" together with page "B" so that the blank sides are facing together. Using a sewing machine, stitch around the outer edge with a 1/2" seam. Repeat this process by doing the same thing for page "C" and "D." You will do this with all the pages until you have worked your way through the alphabet. You now have 13 two-sided pages rather than 26 single-sided pages.

Step 6: Now that your pages are sewn together, stack them carefully in the order they will appear in your book - this will help you determine which side of the page you will be cutting holes in for the binding.

Step 7: Beginning with page "A" facing up, measure and mark 3 points about 1/4" in from the left edge of the page. You should be able to space the marks 4" apart. Continue to mark 3 points on the left edge with page "C" facing up, and so on until you have marked each page.

Step 8: Use a grommet as a template to trace the inner circle of the grommet around each mark you placed along the left edge of the felt pages.

Step 9: Carefully cut out each circle you traced. This can be done with sharp scissors. It may be easier, however, to cut a small x in each circle using an X-acto knife and then trim away these small flaps. You will want to be sure you have cut through both layers of the felt page.

Step 10: Follow the directions on the grommet tool packaging for properly aligning and attaching the grommets. Re-stack the pages of your book in the proper order and line up the grommets you have attached.

Step 11: Thread a ribbon through the bottom grommets on each page. Do this again for the middle and top grommets.

Step 12: Pull the ribbons to straighten out the pages. Tie a bow or knot (this is your own aesthetic preference) to secure the binding, and you have a beautiful alphabet book!

For sewing the binding of the book:

Step 5: Stack the pages of the book in the order they will appear in the finished binding. You will place the blank side (the back side) of page "A" against the blank side of page "B," then you will place the blank side of page "C" to face the blank side of page "D," and so on through out the alphabet.

Step 6: Once the book is assembled in order, add two extra sheets of craft felt to the bottom of the stack, then measure the thickness of the stack. My book is 2 1/2" thick.

Step 7: From two blank pieces of craft felt, cut six strips that measure 3" wide and 12" tall.

Step 8: From another blank sheet of craft felt, cut a strip that is 12" in length and the width is the thickness of your book plus 3". My book measures 2 1/2", so I will cut a strip that measures 5 1/2".

Step 9: Select pages "A" and "B" and the two blank pieces of felt that you added to your stack of pages and the strip of felt that you cut to be the thickness of the book plus 1".

On your left, lay page "A" face down. On the right edge of the back side of page "A" lay the above mentioned felt strip so that it overlaps 1/2". Use the sewing machine to stitch it in place.

Step 10: Keep page "A" facing down. Now allow the un-sewn edge of the felt strip to overlap 1/2" on the left edge of a blank piece of felt. Use the sewing machine to stitch it in place.

Step 11: Keeping page "A" face down, lay page "B" face up on top of page "A." Use the sewing machine to sew around all four edges of pages "A" and "B."

Step 12: Lay the remaining blank piece of felt on top of the blank piece of felt you have stitched in place.

Use the machine to sew around all four edges of the blank page. You should now have pages "A" and "B" stitched together back-to-back with a strip of felt attaching them to what will be a blank back cover.

Step 13: For the interior pages of the book, you will now attach four pages together at a time. Take page "C" and lay it face down on your left. Along the right edge of the backside of page "C" line up one of the 3" wide felt strips that you cut. Allow it to overlap 1/2". Stitch it in place with your sewing machine.

Line up the un-sewn edge of the felt strip so that it overlaps 1/2" on the back left side of page "F." Stitch it in place using your sewing machine.

Step 14: Keep pages "C" and "F" facing down. Place page "D" on top of page "C" so the blank sides of the pages are touching.

Use the sewing machine to sew around all 4 edges of the page allowing a 1/2" seam. Place page "E" on top of page "F" as described above. Use the machine to stitch all 4 sides of the pages together.

You will now repeat this process for the remaining pages. They will be organized in groups of 4 as follows:
G,H,I,J
K,L,M,N
O,P,Q,R
S,T,U,V
W,X,Y,Z

As you sew the pages together, the letters at the beginning and end of each group will be the pages that you lay face down to begin this step. For example, "G" and "J" will lay face down while you attach the 3" strip of felt between them. You will then lay "H" and "I" on top, facing up. You will repeat this for the final 4 groups of letters as well.

Step 15: Once all the pages have been stitched together in groups of 4, we are ready to do the final binding.

Lay page "A" facing down and spread it open so the back cover is on your right and page "B" faces up on your left. Use a pen and your ruler to measure and mark a vertical line 1" from the edge of each page toward the center of the felt that connects the front pages and the back cover. Between these lines, evenly space 4 more vertical lines. This is the spine of your book. You will use these lines to help you line up the pages you just stitched together.

Step 16: Use a pen to mark the center of each felt strip that runs between pages (if you measured correctly and allowed a 1/2" overlap, there should be 2" of felt between pages).

Step 17: Line up the center mark between pages "D" and "E" on the first vertical line that you marked on the spine (the line that is closest to page "B"). Use the sewing machine to stitch it in place.

Line up the center mark between pages "H" and "I." Stitch in place.

The third mark is lined up between "L" and "M." Stitch in place.

The fourth mark lines up between "P" and "Q." Stitch in place.

The fifth mark lines up between "T" and "U." Stitch in place.

The sixth mark lines up between "X" and "Y." Stitch in place.

Congratulations, you have just assembled a book that would make any hormone-fueled pregnant lady burst into tears. I am even getting kind of choked up at the thought of it right now.

About the Author:

Claire Joyce is an artist and college teacher in Eureka, Calif. Since purchasing a new home she is constantly discovering new and exciting ways to better craft her life.

E-Book Review Plus Project Excerpt: 3 Beautiful Bags

by Carla Sinclair

in CRAFT Projects

3 Beautiful Bags
By Lisa Lam
F&W Media International

Fresh off the press! 3 Beautiful Bags, an e-book by Lisa Lam, just became available about an hour ago! The downloadable book is a hefty excerpt of her upcoming book, A Bag For All Reasons, coming out in May 2012. As the title states, her e-book has tutorials on 3 unique, very lovely bags: The Compact Groceries Tote, The 3-in-1 Convertible Backpack, and the Fashionista Baby Bag (which is stylish enough to use as a personal bag). She includes full-sized template PDFs for each bag. But more than just the bags, the first half of the book has wonderfully detailed instructions on all kinds of sewing techniques, from adding zippers and magnetic snaps to modifying patterns, adding straps, inserting linings, and so much more.

If you order the book today, you'll get a 20% discount (and 10% off tomorrow). To get a taste of the book, she's offered us a free sample: the adorable Fashionista baby changing mat that you can tuck inside the Fashionista Baby Bag (both shown below).

Make sure to also download the template PDF that follows the tutorial PDF.

Download the Fashionista Changing Mat PDF
Right click to save the PDF to your desktop. Directions on downloading PDFs.

Download the Fashionista Changing Mat Template PDF
Right click to save the PDF to your desktop. Directions on downloading PDFs.

Visit Lisa Lam's blog, U-handbag, to keep up on her latest sewing adventures!

Project: Wall-Mounted Boxy Shelves

by Carla Sinclair

in CRAFT Projects,Home Decor

By Sonya Nimri

Living in cramped quarters, every inch of one's walls become precious real estate, where storage must be maximized and stylized to get the most for your space. These shelves are a great solution if you have wood from another project or random pieces lying around. I happened to find some oak table leaves in the alley that came in handy for this project.

Materials

3/4"-thick wood, 4 pieces at 11 3/4" (L) x 9 1/2" (W) x 3/4", and a fifth piece at 11 3/4" (L) x 2" (W) x 3/4"
Measuring tape
Pencil
Drill with the following attachments: Phillips head screw bit and countersink (if you are using a hardwood like oak or teak. For pine or MDF, no countersink attachment is needed.) It is helpful but not necessary to have two drills so you don't have to keep rotating the bits.
15 2" screws

Directions

Step 1: Take your 4 pieces of 11 3/4" (L) x 9 1/2" (W) x 3/4" wood and assemble them into a sideways box so that the two sides are on the top and bottom (it's your choice on which length of the box will be the sides).

Step 2: Now it is time to set your screws into your first side, which is facing up. (You will be drilling down into the box.) Take a pencil and your measuring tape and mark your side in 3 places that are each 3/8" down from the edge of your first side. 2 marks should be spaced 1" from each end and then your third mark should be exactly in the middle.

Step 3: If you are using a soft wood like pine or MDF, you can drill your screws in right away starting at the ends, then drill the middle screw in. I used reclaimed oak, so in order for the screws to penetrate the wood, I needed to pre-drill holes. I used a countersink drill attachment, which leaves a perfectly shaped hole for the screw as well as room for the head of the screw to sink into the wood, leaving the surface of the box perfectly flat.

Step 4: Repeat steps 2-3 on the opposite end of the same piece of wood.

Step 5: Turn the box over and repeat Steps 2-4 on the other side. The fourth (last) edge might be the trickiest because the wood might stick out a little. This will happen if your screws aren't perfectly straight on the other 3 edges. Not a problem - just hold it to form a right angle and drill away.

Step 6: Now for your long, slim piece of wood to mount your box to the wall. On the back of your box, mark the center, 3/8" down from the top edge. Then hold the piece of wood in place, underneath the edge that you just marked (as shown in photo), and pre-drill a screw into your mark. Put a screw in.

Step 7: Measure out 2 more places to add 2 more screws. I put them 1" from each side.

Step 8: Drill a couple of holes through the back of the long, slim piece of wood. I put mine 2" from each side.

Step 9: Find your studs and attach your box to the wall by sinking the screws into the studs through your pre-drilled holes.

About the Author:

Sonya.Photo.jpg

Sonya Nimri lives and crafts in a little house in Venice Beach, Calif. She is the author of two books: Beadalicious and Just for the Frill of It. Visit her at sonyastyle.com for lots of project ideas.

Project: Sewing Kit Valentines Card

by Carla Sinclair

in CRAFT Projects,Paper Crafts,Sewing

By Haley Pierson-Cox

Get cute and crafty this Valentine's Day by sending your pals, lady-friends, and gentlemen callers a handy sewing kit valentine!

Materials

Paper scissors
Text-weight colored paper, at least 6 sheets in your favorite colors
Pencil
Circle punch or compass, one in a 1" size and one slightly smaller
1/8" hole punch
White glue
2 small buttons
Mod Podge, paper formula
Wax paper
Note card
Straight pin
Sponge paintbrush
Sewing needle
Embroidery floss, a yard length of 2 colors
Sewing thread, three colors wound into loose loops
3/4" x 1 1/2" craft felt

Step 1: Make a symmetrical heart pattern by folding a piece of paper in half width-wise, then drawing half of a heart at the fold. My heart is about 6" tall. Cut out the pattern and open it.

Step 2: To create the card, fold a full sheet of colored paper in half width-wise then line up the heart pattern so that the top edges of each side meet the fold. Trace the shape onto the paper with a pencil then cut out the card. Take care to leave the tops of each side connected at the fold.

Step 3: Selecting your favorite contrasting color combinations, cut out 25-30 1" circles and 25-30 circles that are slightly smaller than 1" using punches or a compass. (I used 2 punches that were labeled 1", but were slightly different in size.)

Step 4: Glue a smaller circle to each larger circle using white glue.

Step 5: Using scrap paper, cut out an additional small circle. Fold the circle in half twice, then use the folds as a guide to place the buttonholes. Punch the holes with a 1/8" paper punch, then use this template to add buttonholes to the rest of your circles.

Step 6: Glue the buttons to the front of the card using white glue.

Step 7: Once the buttons are secured, place the card on a sheet of wax paper and seal the outside of the card with Mod Podge, allowing it to dry overnight or until it's no longer tacky to the touch.

Step 8: Write your message on a note card, then use a pin to create evenly spaced holes for stitches.

Step 9: Using paper in a contrasting color, cut out a heart that is slightly smaller than the pattern that you made in Step 1. Center the note card with the lettering, then use a pin to transfer the stitch holes onto the heart.

Step 10: Using 2-ply embroidery floss, use the stitch holes to backstitch the message onto the heart.

Step 11: Using 2-ply embroidery floss, attach the buttons and sewing thread to the heart, knotting the floss on the back side. Next, insert the pin and sewing needle into the felt piece, then glue the felt in place along the top and bottom edges using white glue.

Step 12: Using paper in a contrasting color, cut out a second set of hearts to line the inside of the card, following the directions in Step 2. Glue it in place using white glue.

Step 13: Glue the heart with the message and sewing tools to the inside of the card.

Step 14: Wish your special someone a happy Valentine's Day!

About the Author:

Haley Pierson-Cox is a Brooklyn-based craft writer who loves granny glasses and loathes extraneous apostrophes. She blogs about crafts, cats, domestic bliss, and DIY goodness at The Zen of Making.

Project: Quilled Hearts & Flowers Valentine

by Carla Sinclair

in CRAFT Projects,Paper Crafts

By Ann Martin

If you enjoy making Valentine cards, quilled hearts and flowers are a great way to add dimension. At first glance, quilling might seem complicated, but it honestly isn't hard to do once you've learned the basics. An added bonus is that it's one of the least expensive hobbies I've come across, and chances are good you already have the necessary supplies on hand to get started.

Many quilled shapes start with the same building block - a loose, round coil that is pinched in different ways to create a variety of shapes. My best advice is to take your time, work with a light touch, and use less glue than you probably think is necessary.

Practice rolling strips you've cut from a sheet of computer paper - 1/8" is the typical strip width. Soon you will be used to the amount of tension required to roll coils evenly. Oh, and if 1/8" sounds narrow, keep in mind some quillers prefer to work with 1/16" strips!

Materials

Basic quilling supplies can be purchased at craft stores. Online suppliers offer a wide selection of paper, tools, books, and kits.

Cardstock, white and red
Ruler
Scissors
Decorative tape, red and white, scalloped and striped
Decorative paper ribbon, red and white dotted
Paper crimper
Glue stick
Computer and printer
White computer paper for card's message
1/8"-wide quilling paper, white, red and green
Quilling tool, needle tool, or slotted tool *
Paper cutter
Glue any type suitable for paper
Straight pin, paper piercing tool, or toothpick to apply glue
Plastic lid or acrylic sheet to use as glue palette
Tweezers
Damp cloth to keep fingers free of glue
Scallop scissors (optional)
White gel pen (optional)

* Choosing a quilling tool: There are two basic tool types. The needle tool can be tricky at first, but the payoff is a coil with no center crimp. The slotted tool is a breeze to use as long as you don't mind the little crimp it produces.

To roll a coil with a needle tool (or substitute a round toothpick, stiff wire, cake tester, or corsage pin): Hold the handle with one hand and dampen your thumb and index finger of the other. Place one end of the strip across the needle, and roll the paper between your thumb and finger to make a coil. Be sure to rotate the paper, not the tool.

Allow this loose coil to relax and slide it off the tool.

To roll a coil with a slotted tool: Slide the end of the strip into the slot - the paper shouldn't extend beyond it. Rotate the tool with one hand while evenly guiding the strip with the other hand. Allow this loose coil to relax and slide it off the tool.

Directions

Step 1: Cut cardstock: score and fold a 5 1/2" x 8 1/2" piece of white cardstock at midline of longest measurement to make a card that measures 5 1/2" x 4 1/4". Cut a 5" x 3 3/4" rectangle of red cardstock.

Step 2: Cut a 5" x 3 3/4" rectangle of red cardstock. Apply decorative tapes: place a strip of scalloped tape across the top and bottom of the red rectangle cardstock and trim the excess. (A similar effect can be achieved with a strip of red paper cut along one edge with scallop scissors. Dot each scallop with a white gel pen.) Place a strip of striped tape across bottom, above the scalloped tape, and trim the excess.

Step 3: Run a 6" x 1/2" piece of dotted paper ribbon through the crimper. Use the glue stick to adhere it above the striped tape and trim the excess.

Step 4: Print out your sentiment on white paper and cut a 5" x 1/2" strip with the text centered. (I used Rage Italic 26 via Microsoft Word.) Use the glue stick to adhere it 1 1/4" above the crimped ribbon and trim the excess. Print a continuation of the sentiment to glue inside the card that says: "On Valentine's Day!"

Step 5: Now that the text, tapes, and ribbon have been applied and side edges trimmed for neatness, use a glue stick to adhere the decorated red rectangle to the center of your card front.

Step 6: Make 2 quilled hearts: Fold a 2 1/2" strip of red paper in half. Roll each strip end toward the center fold.

Shape a heart by curving the center tip to one side.

Step 7: Make 5 flowers. Each flower is composed of 4 shaped coils which consist of:

2 1/2" shaped teardrop
3 1/2" shaped teardrop
4" shaped marquise
8" shaped marquise

Step 7a: To make a teardrop (slotted tool coil example):
Roll the paper to create a loose coil and slide the coil off the tool. Pinch the coil to make a point.

Now place a small amount of glue on a nonstick palette. Use a straight pin, paper piercing tool, or toothpick to apply a dot of glue to the coil end. Trim the excess paper.

Finally, make a shaped teardrop by curving the teardrop point to one side.

Step 7b: To make a marquise (needle tool coil example):
Roll the paper to create a loose coil and slide the coil off the tool. Pinch the coil at two opposing points. Glue the end down and trim the excess paper.

Make a shaped marquise by grasping the points. Curve one point to the left and the other to the right so the marquise resembles a leaf.

Step 8: Glue your hearts and flowers onto the card:
Spread a thin layer of glue on a nonstick palette. Hold each quilled shape gently with tweezers, dip the underside of the shape in glue, and place it directly on the card.

About the Author:

Ann Martin of All Things Paper is a quilling enthusiast who loves introducing the craft to others. She teaches, designs projects for books and magazines, and is especially hooked on making paper filigree jewelry.

Recipe: Old Fashioned

by Brookelynn

in CRAFT Projects

I can't think of a more perfect cocktail than an Old Fashioned. It's a delicious combination of Bourbon and fruit. The Bourbon warms you up, while the fruit reminds you of warmer days. It's sweet, and it's bitter, just like life.

The Old Fashioned is a great basic cocktail for any level of home mixologist. The ingredients are simple staples of any bar, and you can never get bored practicing refining this drink. If you are looking for a challenge, check out this CRAFT video to learn how to make a batch of homemade brandied cherries. I would say that most bartenders rely on a sugar cube for sweetness, but I don't love grains of sugar in the bottom of my glass. During a recent discussion with a true cocktail geek, Josh Perez, I learned that simple syrup is a perfectly cromulent substitution. I hope you enjoy making this drink as much as I enjoy consuming it.

More:

Exotic Candied Citrus Syrup

Sage Rush Cocktail

Make Your Own Infused Spirits

Partridge in a Pear Tree

Maker's and Canton Two Ways

Basic Bar Essentials

John Park's Brandied Cherries

Ingredients

Low ball glass
Muddler
Orange
Cherries
Simple syrup, or a sugar cube
Angostura bitters
Bourbon*
Ice

*My favorites include Buffalo Trace, Bulleit, and Maker's Mark. In this case, I'm using a bottle that was infused with a vanilla bean and orange peel. It was a gift from my friend Nik.

Directions

Step 1: Slice an orange, and put half the slice into the glass along with a cherry.

Step 2: Pour 1/4 oz of simple syrup into the glass, or if you prefer, add a sugar cube.

Step 3: Pour a dash of Angostura bitters in.

Step 4: Muddle the fruit and sugar together in the bottom of the glass. Use a wooden muddler to avoid damaging the glassware.

Step 5: Add ice to the glass. The giant cubes are perfect because they are so slow to melt.

Step 6: Top with 2 oz of your preferred Bourbon. Cheers!

Project: Smitten Softspot Knitted Heart

by Carla Sinclair

in CRAFT Projects,Knitting,Patterns

By Lauren O'Farrell
All images copyright Lauren O'Farrell

Mushy love stuff ahoy! It's nearly Valentine's Day - the time of the year when you bellow, "I HEART YOU!" with something handmade. Fancy stitching something squishy to profess your undying amour? Then it's about time you met the Smitten Softspot, a handmade heart that only has eyes for its owner. Awwwwww.

This kooky little knit was originally created for Knit the City's "Hubbub of Hearts" yarnstorm in February 2011. Knit the City is London's most infamous sneaky stitching collective, and there are persistent rumors that I may be Deadly Knitshade, founder of the graffiti group and author of the Knit the City book.

While I couldn't possibly confirm or deny this, I can share this pattern from one of KTC's most daring feats: a string of handmade hearts that were hung from the bow of the statue in the middle of Piccadilly Circus, one of London's busiest tourist areas. The bow was roughly 26 feet above the ground and the yarnstorm (that's what us UK knitters call a graffiti knitting installation) took place in broad daylight with a couple of hundred passers-by milling about.

Of course, you don't need to hang your Smitten Softspot from great heights. You can give him away, leave him somewhere for a random stranger to feel the love, or just keep him to yourself. I won't tell.

Warning: Cannot be used as an alternative to human heart in transplant or sacrifice situations. It's just not gory enough.

Materials

15g DK acrylic yarn in red
15g DK acrylic yarn in white
US size 6 (4.5mm) knitting needles
Tapestry needle
2 black safety eyes or black yarn to embroider eyes
Stuffing
Fig leaf, wings, and cupid bow and arrow to wear when you deliver heart to slightly scared recipient (optional)

Download the Smitten Softspot Knitted Heart
Right click to save the PDF to your desktop. Directions on downloading PDFs.

Size/Gauge
Hold-in-your-hand size or approximately 7" wide

Abbreviations
K = knit
P = purl
M1 = make one (make a new stitch between two stitches)
K2tog = knit two stitches together
Sts = stitches

Pattern

The Smitten Softspot is made with two sides, which you sew together and stuff. You begin each side by making the two heart lobes at the top, then joining both parts to make the main part of the heart.

Step 1: Knit the heart lobes.

Cast on 4 sts with red yarn.
Row 1 and every odd-numbered row to Row 23: Knit across.
Row 2: P, m1, p2, m1, p (6 sts).
Row 4: P, m1, knit to last 2 sts, m1, p (8 sts).
Row 6 and every even-numbered row to Row 16: Repeat row 4 until you have 20 sts. Cut the yarn with a 5" tail and leave the stitches on your needle.

Make the second lobe by repeating Rows 1-16 until you have two lobes on the same needle.

Step 2: Knit the main part of heart.

Row 17: Knit across both lobes to join them (40 sts).
Change to white yarn (just start your next row with the new color).
Row 18: Purl across.
Row 19: Knit across.
Row 20: Purl across.
Row 21: Knit across.
Row 22: Purl across.
Row 23: K2tog twice, knit to last 4 sts, k2tog twice (36 sts).
Row 24 and every even-numbered row: Purl across.
Row 25 and every odd-numbered row to Row 35: Repeat row 23 until you have 14 sts. Change yarn to red.
Row 36 and every even-numbered row: Purl across.
Row 37: K2tog, knit to last 2 sts, k2tog (12 sts).
Row 39: K2tog, knit to last 2 sts, k2tog (10 sts).
Row 41: K2tog, knit to last 2 sts, k2tog (8 sts).

Thread your yarn through the remaining stitches with a tapestry needle. Pull the yarn tight and knot it.

Repeat all of the above to make the back of the heart.

Step 3: Finish up.

Place the two sides of the heart together with the knit sides facing each other. Sew approximately 3/4 of the heart edges together, leaving a quarter of the heart open. Then turn the heart right-side out.

Place the safety eyes (if you're using them) on the heart and snap on the backs. If you're just sewing on eyes, you can wait until the end. Stuff the heart and then sew up the last edges to close it.

Your Smitten Softspot lives! Swoon! He's awfully dreamy...

Caring for your Softspot: Don't take your Softspot to a party and then spend all night talking to other knitted creatures. He's the jealous type. Make sure to give him a reassuring squidge daily. Feed your Softspot cheesy love songs of the 80s. They'll help keep that "just smitten" glow. If you're feeling cruel, add some catnip to your Softspot stuffing, find a fiesty cat, and watch the madness. Meanie.

About the Author:

Lauren O'Farrell is the author of Stitch London, published by F+W Media. She runs the UK's largest stitching community - also called Stitch London, is the editor of Crafty Crafty, and is rumored to be sneaky yarnstorming graffiti knitter Deadly Knitshade and author of Knit the City: a Whodunnknit Set in London, published by Summersdale. She is the founder of London's Knit the City collective. You can follow her and her kooky little knits at Whodunnknit or on Twitter @deadlyknitshade.

Project: Perfect Manicure with Stamped Nails

by Brookelynn

in CRAFT Projects,Fashion

Fun, creative, crafty manicures are the bees knees. I have recently become addicted to the art of nail stamping. The little stamp kits are simple- etched plates, a scraper and a stamp. They allow anyone to apply perfect designs to their nails, without having to be an expert.

My cousin Mallory has a rainbow collection of polishes and a ton of fun stamping designs, and she taught me how to use them. We had a late night nail party, and it was so much fun! One thing she taught me- different polishes work better than others for stamping. Thicker paints, and quick drying paints worked the best. Some thinner polishes just wouldn't lift up from the engraved plate. Experiment with different types and different colors to find the best combinations.

craftzine_stamp_nails_12&13&14&15.jpg

Materials

Nail clippers Nail file Base coat/Top coat Nail polish in 2 contrasting colors Nail stamp kit, with engraved designs, scraper, and stamp Rhinestones Pointed wooden stick

Directions

craftzine_stamp_nails_04&05.jpg

Step 1: Clip and file your nails. Run the file along the edge of the nail, and also over the entire surface of the nail.

Step 2: Wash your hands thoroughly with soap and water. As simple as it is, washing your hands before you paint removes oil that would otherwise keep paint from adhering to the surface of your nail.

Step 3: Apply a thin layer of base coat to each nail. Let the paint dry until it is no longer tacky to the touch.

Step 4: Apply 2 coats of polish to your nails. Paint the whole nail, then run the brush along the edge. By painting the edge, you help prevent chipping. Let the paint dry as long as possible in between coats, and let the final coat dry fully before moving onto the next step.

Step 5: Dab the second color of nail polish onto the design that you want to stamp. Cover and fill every groove of the design with paint.

Step 6: Use the scraper to remove the excess paint from the engraved plate.

Step 7: Working quickly, press the stamp onto the design. With even and firm pressure, roll the stamp over the paint to lift the design up.

Step 8: As soon as you have lifted the design, transfer it onto your nail. Roll the stamp over your nail smoothly and evenly. Stamp each nail, then let them fully dry before moving onto the next step.

Step 9: Use polish remover to clean up any paint from your skin, then cover one nail with a thin layer of top coat. If you didn't let the paint dry completely, or if you add too much top coat, the design could blur. After all the work you've done, you don't want to ruin it now, so work carefully and be patient.

craftzine_stamp_nails_20&21&22.jpg

Step 10: While the top coat on the nail is wet, use the wooden stick to pick up a crystal. Moisten the end of the stick (I give mine a quick lick) and touch the point to a crystal. It will lift the rhinestone right up. Then press it onto your nail, and give it a moment to set into the wet top coat. Repeat steps 9 and 10 for each nail.

Project: Paper Beads to String a Bracelet

by Carla Sinclair

in CRAFT Projects,Jewelry,Paper Crafts

By Olivia DeMirjian
Photos by Susan Sheridan

Over the summer, I went to art class with my mom, who is an artist. Her art teacher showed me a project that really interested me - colorful bracelets made out of paper and glue. She showed me how to cut and roll the paper to create a bead. Each bead was then strung onto clear elastic thread and - voila - a bracelet was born.

When I got home, I decided to take the project one step further and designed my own paper using markers, basic white copy paper, and my imagination. My first bracelet was called "Olivia's First", and it was made up of primary colors. After that, I began making more bracelets, including "Tutti Frutti," "Happy Fever," and "Party In the USA." I started wearing the bracelets to school, and a lot of my friends really liked them. From the start, I knew I wanted to donate a portion of the proceeds to charity. I have three charities that I donate to, and this makes me feel good as I am creating the bracelets.

Materials

Plain white recycled copy paper
Colorful markers
Ruler
Pencil
Scissors
Mod Podge or a clear glue stick
Small inexpensive paint brush, 1/2" wide
Several toothpicks
Wax paper
Epoxy
Clear elastic thread
Painter's tape
Small glass beads in multiple colors

Directions

Step 1: Create a design with markers on the white paper. Your design can first be drawn out with a pencil or made up without a pre-planned design.

Step 2: Take a ruler, and with your pencil, make lines that form long triangle strips. Cut the strips. I make my strips about 1/2" wide at the base and about 1/8" wide at the tip.

Step 3: Paint the uncolored side of the triangle strip with Modge Podge. Lay the toothpick at the base of your triangle strip (on the sticky side) and roll up your strip. You will be rolling from the base to the tip of the triangle. Roll tightly and carefully, using the toothpick to help wrap up the paper. Make sure to keep the triangle centered as you roll. Pull your bead off the toothpick and set onto wax paper.

Step 4: Roll at least 8-10 beads. Once you have done this, begin epoxying the beads. After the beads have dried from the epoxy (1-3 days), you can begin to string them.

Step 5: Lay your roll of clear elastic down on your work table and tape its case down with painter's tape (making sure not to tape down the thread itself). This will make it easy to string your beads without also having to deal with your spool of thread. Now take your clear thread and begin stringing one epoxied bead onto the elastic. Follow this with one, two, or three glass beads - however many you desire. Repeat this and measure as you string to make sure you have enough beads on the elastic to fit your wrist. Once you finish stringing, make sure you have at least 3" on each end of your beads before cutting the string.

Step 6: Knot the elastic and then trim, making sure not to accidentally cut into the knot.

Step 7: Wear and enjoy your one-of-a-kind, completely handmade bracelet.

About the Author:

Olivia DeMirjian is a 12-year-old student that never considered herself creative until she uncovered her own talent by creating these one of a kind, completely handmade, uniquely designed bracelets. She donates a portion of her profits to three different charities.

About the Photographer:

Susan Sheridan has been a freelance photographer for 12 years, focusing on portraits for children and babies. She has also photographed corporate headshots for Universal Studios, Paramount Studios, E! Entertainment, and many other networks and studios. She lives in Los Angeles with her husband and two daughters. Visit Susan Sheridan Photography to see more of her work.

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